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Shot at the pass, not in a studio

The
gallery

Nothing here is styled. These are bowls as they left the kitchen, on the days they left it, with whatever the produce box had brought that week.

A detail from the noodle shop

Photographs from the three shops

Everything, in one wall

  • The fourteen-seat counter at Kakaako, just before the lunch rush
    The fourteen-seat counter at Kakaako, just before the lunch rush
  • Hosomen lifted and shaken dry before it goes into the bowl
    Hosomen lifted and shaken dry before it goes into the bowl
  • Chashu belly rolled, tied and braised four hours in tare
    Chashu belly rolled, tied and braised four hours in tare
  • Ajitama cut open, twelve hours in the marinade
    Ajitama cut open, twelve hours in the marinade
  • The tonkotsu pot at hour sixteen, aromatics just in
    The tonkotsu pot at hour sixteen, aromatics just in
  • Chili oil bloomed at 250F and rested two days
    Chili oil bloomed at 250F and rested two days
  • Hamakua shiitake drying on racks above the pass
    Hamakua shiitake drying on racks above the pass
  • Gyoza folded by hand at 7 am, six to a plate
    Gyoza folded by hand at 7 am, six to a plate
  • The Noren Room set for eighteen
    The Noren Room set for eighteen
  • Kahuku corn cut off the cob that morning
    Kahuku corn cut off the cob that morning
  • Nori toasted at the pass so it lands crisp
    Nori toasted at the pass so it lands crisp
  • Last ticket of a Saturday night in Waikiki
    Last ticket of a Saturday night in Waikiki

The prep shift

Four thirty in the morning, before anyone else is awake, when the bones go in.

  • The prep shift, frame 1
  • The prep shift, frame 2
  • The prep shift, frame 3
  • The prep shift, frame 4

What lands in front of you

Seven bowls, photographed at the pass rather than in a studio.

  • What lands in front of you, frame 1
  • What lands in front of you, frame 2
  • What lands in front of you, frame 3
  • What lands in front of you, frame 4
  • What lands in front of you, frame 5

The rooms

Kakaako, Waikiki and Kaimuki, all three of them at their busiest.

  • The rooms, frame 1
  • The rooms, frame 2
  • The rooms, frame 3
  • The rooms, frame 4

Come and see it working

The counter at Kakaako faces the pass. You will see the noodle basket, the tare ladle and the pot chart on the wall behind it.

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