Four pieces, written by the people who cook
Kitchen
journal
Not recipes. The reasoning behind the decisions: why a broth boils hard, why a bowl cannot wait, and where we say no to an allergen question.
- Pieces
- 4
- Written by
- The kitchen
- Latest
- 4 September 2026
Why tonkotsu needs a hard boil and every other broth does not
Most stocks are ruined by a rolling boil. Tonkotsu is the exception, and understanding why explains most of what happens in our kitchen before the doors open.
Written by Shun Nakamura
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How to read a ramen menu without asking a single question
Tare, kaedama, barikata, futsuu. Six words will let you order exactly the bowl you want anywhere, and they all mean something practical.
Written by Leilani Souza
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What it actually takes to answer an allergen question honestly
A separate pot is the easy part. Here is what else has to be true before a server can tell you a bowl is safe, and where we still say no.
Written by Dani Ferreira
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Kahuku corn in a shio bowl: cooking a Japanese menu with island produce
Sweet corn and butter are Hokkaido classics. Watercress from Aiea and lilikoi in a daifuku are not, and working out which swaps hold up took us three years.
Written by Leilani Souza
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Read it at the counter
Most of this is easier to understand with a bowl in front of you. Sit at the pass and ask the cook about any of it.